POTAMIA, NAXOS: THREE RIVERSIDE VILLAGES AND THE KOKKOS TOWER

Potamia is a valley of orchards, plane trees and running water in the interior of Naxos, an island whose landscape is otherwise mostly dry. Rather than a single village, it is a chain of three adjoining settlements, which together hold a concentration of historical remains: Venetian-period towers, a set of old watermills and a number of small and early churches. The concentration of monuments within a short distance makes it a common choice for short walks.

Location, Name and Population

Potamia lies in the centre of the island on the road from Naxos Town towards Halki. Distance from the capital is given as about 9 kilometres in most sources, with one giving 12, and a drive of about 15 minutes. The three settlements follow one another along the hill: Ano (Upper) Potamia, Mesi (Middle) Potamia, sometimes spelled Messi or Messaia, and Kato (Lower) Potamia. The main road passes close to all three without entering them. The neighbourhood of Lierado, placed within Mesi Potamia by one source, contains the Kokkos tower. The name means “rivers” or “riverside” in Greek and refers to the stream that crosses the valley.

The tourism sources reviewed give about 350 to 362 permanent residents for the area, who work mainly in farming, livestock and tourism. A separate source records 99 inhabitants in Kato Potamia at the 2011 census and notes that this village has been designated a traditional settlement since 1988. Local sources add that the area was inhabited from prehistoric times, with Thracians, Carians and Ionians mentioned in the tradition; this belongs to local tradition more than to documented history. Sources also note that the valley was a refuge during pirate raids.

The Kokkos Tower and Its Legend

The best-known building is the Kokkos tower in the Lierado neighbourhood, a three-storey fortified house of the 17th century standing among olive and plane trees. Most sources say that a watermill occupies its ground floor, although one tourism site describes it as a windmill. According to local legend, the tower was the setting for a “Romeo and Juliet” story between members of the rival Kokkos and Barozzi families. This is folklore and has no documentary support in the sources reviewed. A man of the same surname, Iakovos Kokkos, is named as the founder of the Ypsilotera monastery near Galini (see the Galini guide); the sources reviewed do not say whether he belonged to the same family.

Sources record that eight towers were built in the area under Venetian rule, of which the Kokkos tower is the best preserved. The tower is generally viewed from the lane, and any interior access should be confirmed locally.

Watermills and the Valley

Guides count 14 traditional watermills on the outskirts of the settlements, fed by the valley’s plentiful water, along with remains of a cereal mill. One has been restored and is open to visitors, according to the island’s tourism site, and another, the Drillis watermill, is reported between Mesi and Ano Potamia. The square in Ano Potamia has an old fountain beside the chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos, dated 1799. The area is known for sweet preserves, cheeses and wine, and several tavernas, including one in Ano Potamia built around a stream, are widely recommended.

Agios Mamas, Apano Kastro and the Kore

South of Kato Potamia stands the church of Agios Mamas, regarded as one of the most important and oldest churches on Naxos. Sources date it to the 9th or 10th century, and describe it as one of 34 or 37 churches in the wider area, so exact figures are uncertain. Above Ano Potamia, the ruins of Apano Kastro (“Upper Castle”) are traditionally attributed to Marco Sanudo, the first Venetian Duke of Naxos, in the 13th century, and described as a refuge against pirates; the attribution should be read as traditional. See the guide to the Kastro of Naxos for the Sanudo background. An unfinished archaic statue of a woman (a kore) is also reported on the path from Ano Potamia towards Halki.

Walking

Potamia is described as a favourite destination for walkers. Sources mention a short circular trail between the three villages, a path from the Tragea valley to Ano Potamia, and a route from Melanes through Ano and Mesi Potamia that passes the Flerio kouroi (see the Kourounochori guide). Paths are not always signposted, so a map or downloaded route is advisable, along with water and sturdy shoes.

Visiting Potamia

Potamia is reached by car or taxi from Naxos Town in roughly 15 minutes along the road towards Halki; public bus services are seasonal and timetables should be checked at the terminal. It combines easily with Halki (Halki guide) and the Tragea valley villages, and can be seen in one to two hours on foot. Because the villages are residential, visitors should keep to lanes and public spaces, and treat churches as places of worship. Late spring and early autumn are generally the more comfortable seasons for walking.

Quick Answers

What does Potamia mean? It means “riverside” in Greek, after the stream that runs through the valley.

How many villages make up Potamia? Three: Ano (Upper), Mesi (Middle) and Kato (Lower) Potamia.

What is Potamia known for? It is known for the 17th-century Kokkos tower, its old watermills, the church of Agios Mamas and its green valley.

How far is Potamia from Naxos Town? About 9 kilometres, roughly a 15-minute drive on the road towards Halki.

Potamia stands out on Naxos because water has shaped the whole settlement pattern: mills along the stream, towers above the orchards, and three villages strung along the slope. For planning a stay on the island, see the fabnaxosvillas villa portfolio and the guide to getting to Naxos.